Sunday, November 28, 2021

 Dell R720xd Server notes.

1. Can't log into iDRAC? Hold down the blue LED button in the back for 15 seconds. It's on the far left next to the iDRAC ethernet port. Login is 'root' and 'calvin' for defaults. Loads fine on Chrome browser. I'm on Chrome Version 96.0.4664.55 (Official Build) (x86_64)

On a Mac. :) Version 8 update 311 is the installed Java version. If that still matters. It used to...

Wednesday, November 17, 2021

BTC-S37 Notes: Strange things are afoot. And misc info.

 1. The BTC-S37 PCIe power inputs are all tied. So, you CANNOT power the 'riser' (slot) from the same power supply as the card unless you use ONE power supply. Because you are not supposed to use a different power supply on the riser than you do with the GPU. 

One possible out I'm still exploring. Some server power supplies use a load sharing capability via a pin so that's a possibility but I have yet to see a breakout board with it, so it'd have to be a mod.

2. If you order a BTC-S37 you might get a 1037U CPU at 1.8 ghz or an 847 processor at 1.1ghz. It probably doesn't make a lot of difference, but perhaps a good seller will emerge that can source the better CPU. The 1037U is 2 years newer so and of course a little faster. I've ordered 2 boards from the same seller and gotten one of each. Grr: the Ebay ad said 1037U but the SECOND one had the OLDER CPU. I have my eye on a new seller that at least mentions you might get either.

3. One of my boards with the 1037U CPU apparently doesn't like the 6600XT. It locks with a gigabyte 6600XT, has the powercolor hellhound drop offline or detected dead all the time...but those GPUs work fine in the 847 CPU board. The 1037U mines all day long with Nvidia hodgepodge collection:

In this screenshot (click to expand) I just took the GPU offline. It'll sit there all day. And it was only drawing 52W on a 750W supply, I tried diff slots, etc. Probably just move some boards so it's all Nvidia. If I get bored (board bored?) I may try a 6700XT in it.

The main issue is the boards are the same revision and the socket is the same so I don't know how to tell the difference other than powering it on.


There's a green light that's 'power good' I think since it's always on. The one right above that is HDD activity. Barely able to see it unless there's a LOT of activity.

Hardware Resources:

Links are referral. I'll make a bit of cash for toys. mSATA to full sized SATA. So you can write the HiveOS drive in a PC. USB3 to SATA case Pick one. Use in conjunction with the mSATA to SATA so your Mac/PC sees it as a flash drive so BalenaEtcher etc. will write directly to the mSATA. This is how I do it. Open Air Frame that fits the BTC-S37. I have not moved my board to it but it went together pretty well. Stackable. And yes, I know this can be done cheaper but what's my time worth and how nice is the finished product? You judge. It's difficult to find a frame that isn't designed for riser use. Expect a video someday at I haven't wanted to take the rig offline to move it but...soon. 

I think this might also be useable as a small open air frame for GPU riser setups but just with a little less room as it's a muchlower height. Probably with an offset motherboard setup. Also it has fan mounts. 

Cons:: Some ATX boards don't have a mount point supposedly and you're supposed to use a rubber foot in that corner of the board. Doesn't matter for a BTC-S37.

Pros: Five 120mm fan mounts are on the frame for cooling. I bought 5 Antec fans for under $20 here here Notes on these fans: 30.5cfm, so not real fast but also silent. Mo.ex connectors. Blue LEDs IIRC are the cheapest and they come in packs of 3 so you could order two and have cool alternating colors. The molexes can be daisy chained.

Thursday, November 11, 2021

Dell G5 5000 Power Supply Blinks: How to Decode. And why your Video Card doesn't work.

I have the i5 version of the Dell G5 5000 desktop. Here's the info table.

Read down for the issue with two video cards I had.

3 amber blinks, 2 white blinks indicates


PCI of Video card/chip failure

but I'm pretty sure it isn't. Keep reading. 

Table 1. Diagnostic light codes
1,2Unrecoverable SPI Flash Failure
2,1CPU configuration or CPU failure
2,2System board: BIOS or Read-Only Memory (ROM) failure
2,3No memory or Random-Access Memory (RAM) detected
2,4Memory or Random-Access Memory (RAM) failure
2,5Invalid memory installed
2,6System board/Chipset Error/Clock failure/Gate A20 failure/Super I/O failure/Keyboard controller failure
3,1CMOS battery failure
3,2PCI of Video card/chip failure
3,3BIOS Recovery 1: BIOS recovery image not found
3,4BIOS Recovery 2: Recovery image found but invalid
3,5Power Rail Failure: EC ran into power sequencing failure
3,6Paid SPI Volume Error
3,7Management Engine (ME) error. Timeout waiting on ME to reply to HECI message.
4,2CPU Power cable connection issue

I removed my 1660Ti to do some other work with it (wink) and tried a GT430 (1gb) and a 9600GSO (wow!) but nether card worked.

Summary: cards are just too old.

I had to put a 1050ti in it to install Windows. Won't even boot without a newer card I guess.

Did this help? Subscribe to my youTube channel for crypto mining, tech support, and more.

Why? Because YouTube is playing ads on my videos and giving me NOTHING. I need 1000 subscrobers before I get any money. One video has over 40,000 hits. And I get NOTHING! Help me out.

Wednesday, September 22, 2021

Ravencoin Lite Wallet Issues on OS X

Do you get this on Mac OS X when setting up your Ravencoin lite wallet?

'Cannot obtain a lock on data directory...core is probably already running. Operation not supported.'

The quick fix is to go into the directory with raven-qt in it via the terminal and type ./raven-qt -choosedatadir and then it will let you choose a new directory.


The '...' box to select a destination is wonky, so just type in /Volumes/4TB/Ravenlite but of course use your hard drive name instead of '4TB' which is my simply named secondary plain old drive.

Why? It's my guess the Raven OS X wallet is  not able to lock an SMB 2.x share (my NAS is Unraid...and I forget why I didn't restrict SMB access on my NAS to SMB 3...will redo...)... perhaps due to it being mounted with SMB 2.1...

To find out what SMB your NAS share is mounted on your Mac with, type smbutil statshares -a in a terminal window.

It will have something like 

SMB_VERSION                   SMB_2.1 

in the output.

IIRC I read somewhere about SMB 3 being better. And the Ravenwallet is not smart enough to know that's the reason for a lock issue so it says 'well i must be running already!'
Next issue. raven-qt just sits there. Doesn't sync at all.

You need to add a bunch of nodes to your raven.conf file in the /ravenlite directory (or whereever you told ravenlite to put its files on setup. In my case above, in the root dir of '4TB'.

Go to and click the 'Add Nodes' tab. Show 100 entries and paste all those lines into raven.conf

In my case, raven.conf was ZERO bytes. Now it's syncing.

Did I help? Send me some ETC (Ethereum Classic) at 

0x866d3ACB0c852acc4E8b4E944E9C54673670e305 (QR below)

or Paypal at 

Sunday, September 12, 2021

Dell G15 5510 Notes

Just some notes. If you find them useful, give me a follow on YouTube so that I can share in the ad revenue that YouTube is keeping.

Yup, they show ads on the tens of thousands of views I get and I get zero. 

My channel:

Videos such as:

Anyway, notes on the Dell G15 5510:

1. RAM. It uses 2900 (ish)mhz DDR4 RAM, but I had a 8 gig stick of 2666 already, so it's slightly slower but was 'free'. Now it's dual channel so still much faster than the single it came with. If you have that I wouldn't waste the extra $$$ on a 2900 stick.

If you're buying a stick, IMHO buy the faster 3200 or whatever for $5 or so extra...tiny bit of forward use like my 2666 I bought instead of the 2400 my other laptop now it's being used in this one. :)

Are you buying ANYTHING at Amazon? Use this link and I'll get 4% and it costs you nothing:

Crypto: Yes, I *KNOW* it's a laptop and heat, etc. 

Thoughts on the heat: the whole back half is covered in mesh and so my laptop cooler fans point at that. The center area around the silver metal fram you see doesn't get very hot so I decided not to run it with the backplate off. Would not make a ton of diff. 

Also, this laptop has options for much hotter parts, so these (i5/3050Ti) are somewhat conservative parts I think.

i7/3060 are the max, but that costs 50-100% more depending on sales, so I got this one.

I overclocked the 3050Ti RAM and underclocked the GPU to the minimum and it mines ETC at 26.xx Mh/s. 

That's 204% of a 1050Ti at around the same power, 80 or 90 watt max and we're nowhere near that.

GPU runs at 67-68C on a cheap laptop cooler...and I plan to buy a better one and possible remove the bottom plate so it's even cooler.

The bottom plate has 4 screws on the outer edge that DO NOT come out of the bottom plate. The ones in front under the trackpad do (set of two) and the ones on the back do come out.


As you can see, no space for a 2.5" drive. Some pics I saw on the web appeared to have room, with a smaller battery, for a 2.5 but they were slightly diff model #s.

Stock RAM:

Power brick is huge, Haven't checked but I bet it's still an unnecessarily large 240W.

...more notes to follow. :)

So far, pretty happy.

Sunday, August 29, 2021

GPU Lost Error in PhoenixMiner

 If these are the errors you get in your log:


2021.08.29:14:45:26.505: main NVML error in : GPU is lost (15)

2021.08.29:14:45:26.505: main NVML error in : Invalid Argument (2)

2021.08.29:14:45:26.505: main Nvidia driver version: 471.68

2021.08.29:14:45:26.508: main NVAPI error in NvapiWrapper.c:341 : -6


Then do these things:

Check the riser power and cable connections. Reseat the connections to the PCIe slot and the PCIe part of the riser.

But it's probably simpler: Just go into Device Manager on Windows, right click the card and Uninstall it. 

DON'T click the checkmark box about uninstalling the drivers.


These simple things fixed my problem and now I'm back mining ETH and ETC in a Dell G5 5000 no less. :)

Did I help? 

Links earn me a small commission. Please use them! If you like my vids, buy me a cup of McDonald's coffee: but at least Click Like and Subscribe buttons. :) PCIe Riser on Amazon: Noctua NF-A9 PWM Fan, 4-Pin (92mm, Brown)

Sunday, August 08, 2021

Install HiveOS on a USB Drive Using Mac OS X: The commands are wrong on Hive OS' site for Mac OS. And some other important tips.

There are some command differences in the terminal vs what HiveOS has on their page. Surprise.

First, *PLEASE* use my link to sign up for HiveOS so that I get something for my time. :)

Also, you can give me a follow on my tech/investing YouTube Channel:

Other Ways to Support Me: (I was thrilled to get some ETC the other day for example.) 

Coinbase US Dollars address. Yup, they still work: 0xB09E3BadF5D8f758865dAC11e4705ae0C33a65eD

Get Coinbase here: We can debate hot and cold wallets later. Also you can earn free crypto by doing the lessons and holding certain types there.

Disclaimer: I'm doing this and typing it up. If it doesn't work, comment. I respond and fix, that's why you'll use my links and give me a cup of coffee etc. :) Also I'm not responsible for anything. Check my work. Data loss is possible if you don't use the right device's mentioned several times but really very simple.

First, let me say, if you are not comfortable with the Terminal in Mac OS or the command line, there's a program that will do all this: 

It was recommended on MacOS Daily here Linky but I like to suffer. ;) I have not used it.

UPDATE: I used it. One good thing is if you put an SSD into a USB external case, Balena Etcher will happily write to it as it sees it as a USB drive of course. Also same thing if you put an mSATA to SATA adapter in it.

Amazon links for those: I Get a few cents if you use the links.

I bought a brand new 60GB mSATA SSD for under $20. The 2.5" SSD is about the same, and 60GB is the sweet spot I think.

If you need the mSATA adapter pick any one that's cheap IMHO and any USB case if you need that

1. Download HiveOS first. (But you probably did this, so...)

2. On that download page, there is a link that tells you the md5 of the file so you are sure the download is not corrupted.

3. Open 'Terminal' on your Mac.

4. Type 'su' , enter your root password, and press enter (so you can write/eject drive).

5. Type md5 -r and then DRAG the .xz HiveOS file into the terminal window and release. It will type the path name etc. for you. 


MacPro:~ robertbullock$ md5 -r /Volumes/BlackTowerMain/Audio/Audio\ Assets/hiveos-0.6-205-stable@210715.img.xz 

6c4bd36db4e6dee0ad314caebea987cc /Volumes/BlackTowerMain/Audio/Audio Assets/hiveos-0.6-205-stable@210715.img.xz

First line is command, second is output. 6c4bd36db4e6dee0ad314caebea987cc is the hash from Make sure it matches what you downloaded.


7. In terminal (new window if you like) type 'diskutil list' To see a list of devices. We're looking for the USB thumb drive you're going to make into a boot device for your HiveOS rig.

Mine is an older unraid USB boot thumb drive so it looks like this:

/dev/disk5 (external, physical):

   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER

   0:     FDisk_partition_scheme                        *8.2 GB     disk5

   1:             Windows_FAT_32 UNRAID                  8.2 GB     disk5s1

Your USB drive will have a different name. Make sure, because (AGAIN) it will be ERASED. In this case, it matches the size and name of what I expect.

The /dev/disk5 is what we are going to unmount. 

Type diskutil unmountDisk /dev/disk5 to unmount it. 

8. Unzip the HiveOS file you downloaded. 'The Unarchiver' for OS X is what I used. (On the App Store at Right click the HiveOS file and 'Open with...' The Unarchiver.

9. Now we will write the .img file the Unarchiver spits out.

Type dd if= and then drag the .img file into the terminal window (the path and name populate as above)  then type after the path/file of=/dev/disk5 bs=10m

so it looks like

dd if=/Volumes/256GB\ SSD/Scratch\ Folder/hiveos/hiveos-0.6-205-stable@210715.img of=/dev/disk5 bs=10m

(if means input file, of means output file, bs is blocksize)

FINAL WARNING: This will erase /dev/disk5 (or whatever yours is) so MAKE SURE that YOUR thumb drive is the correct device. It PROBABLY won't be /dev/disk5 (dev means device BTW.)

Notes: Selecting the terminal window while dd is working will give you some isn't frozen.

Such as: (pressing ctrl-T 3 times)

load: 0.84  cmd: dd 60800 uninterruptible 0.00u 0.14s

2+0 records in

1+0 records out

10485760 bytes transferred in 4.945684 secs (2120184 bytes/sec)

load: 0.77  cmd: dd 60800 uninterruptible 0.00u 0.33s

4+0 records in

3+0 records out

31457280 bytes transferred in 11.526043 secs (2729235 bytes/sec)

load: 0.88  cmd: dd 60800 uninterruptible 0.00u 0.51s

5+0 records in

4+0 records out

41943040 bytes transferred in 15.772785 secs (2659203 bytes/sec)

Walk away. This took a 45 MINUTES for me.

UNVERIFIED: According to replacing 'disk' in the command with 'rdisk' makes this run 20 times faster. So the command would be 

dd if=/Volumes/256GB\ SSD/Scratch\ Folder/hiveos/hiveos-0.6-205-stable@210715.img of=/dev/rdisk5 bs=10m

Yup, just an added 'r'.

Also: USB3 might be faster but I don't recommend that as those run hot. My Unraid server uses a USB2 drive and they recommend that. It won't change the boot speed of your server much. Plus how often you gonna reboot?

EDIT: I reboot a lot. I moved to using an mSATA SSD on my BTC-S37 boards.

Need a USB 2 Thumb drive because you got rid of the old ones? Recommended (again) for these uses due to less heat/greater reliability. Check prices on Amazon and use my link to support me. ;) 

Also, I presorted this for USB 2 and 8/16GB sizes because why buy more? It'll be worthless in a few years then you can buy a 32GB for the same price.


If you see "dd: bs: illegal numeric value", the 'M' in bs=10M should be 'm'. I.e. lowercase.

Monday, June 28, 2021

Dell G5 5000 Gaming Mini Review and Experiences

If you're expecting hard science data here, you won't get it. But you'll get my impressions as a regular end user who got their first PC back when they called them clones. In 1990. And SOME measurements and tips.

I got one because it was under $490 once they gave me a $50 coupon because I complained about the McAfee and onsite warranty I didn't want.

So, fair enough since for $10 I'll take the warranty.

$490 is almost the value of the GPU alone.

And I plan to sell the keyboard and mouse new in the box for hopefully $20 or so total at least.

And I think I get another 1% cash back on Amex, so $7.90.


Benchmarks and Tests:


The GTX 1660 Ti runs as advertised at a RAM freq of 1500 and a GPU freq of 1700. Running 3DMarks "Time Spy" test peaked at 86C GPU temp and 48C CPU temp during a 7 pass "torture" test in a cool room.

Fans were pretty loud but those temps IMHO aren't horrible.

CPU sustained speed of 4090mhz during the 3DMArk torture test.


Cinebench R23 just reported a 7683 score with an ending temp of 83C. And my room's kinda warm. Wasn't running exclusively tho. Peak power at 59W, so that makes sense. TDP is 65W so it isn't reaching it's full potential.

Single core Cinebench shows the core only running at about 4.15ghz max according to HWMonitor.

Cinebench R23 after replacing the 80mm case fan AND while mining ETH on the GPU: 7754 so only a 1% diff. Maybe worth a few percent.

Multicore test is only showing the CPU running at 3.85ghz. Package temp is 93C so it may be throttling even tho that's below the 100C max.

Mine didn't come with the nice plexiglass window. Oh well.

First tip: get rid of that hard drive cage that blocks a bunch of the holes in the front of the case. I have only the 500GB NVME and a 2.5" SSD. That's free extra cooling. Even if you didn't order with a hard drive, the cage is there.

Second Tip: Use something to clone the NVME and then wipe it. I have a Windows 10 Pro drive I converted to UEFI bootable so it's booted from that and later I'll clone it over to the NVME. Right now it's in a 2.5" bay.

Power supply: I think it's 360 watts? This is plenty for the GPU/CPU usages of max 120watts+65watts. So you've got half (`180W) left for other stuff. Plus, there's a video I saw that the power supply is underrated and will actually put out more before shutdown. Unless you want a monster video card, it's enough.

Remember: $490. 


There are two 2.5" sleds in the case for mounting 2.5" devices. Power is prerouted so all you need is a long SATA cable. There are 4 SATA ports.


The i5 CPU is clock locked, so I don't think it's worth it to replace the CPU cooler.

The 1660Ti isn't a beast, so I don't think it has much of a cooling problem either.

In the BASE system, with no hard drives (NVME/SSD only) I think maybe a case fan in the front after removing the hard drive bracket will be sufficient.

My Upgrades:

I had an old Kingwin 3 pin fan around but it was either a 120 or 140mm. It wedges just right between the case edge at the back and the silver housings the port are in. So it's not even secured. It's not tight enough to damage anything but it isn't going to slide out either as it doesn't vibrate. Pretty slow fan but way better than the 80mm stock fan that was back there that I couldn't even feel when it was spinning. It was 'free' from the pile o' crap(™) in my office.

If you have a 3 pin fan lying around, the guide key is there on the motherboard for one. Just disconnect the 4 pin 80mm in the back. You just get max RPM all the time...which is probably a good thing in this case. Pun intended.

This tiny fan, besides GPU fan, is all that moves air thru the case. Yeah,  move it to the front and put it on a PWM splitter. That'll bump cooling a bit more and they are literally about $3 on Amazon. 

Using this link ( to open my search results on Amazon and pick one you like.

Buying using my link earns me a few cents.

I wouldn't put more than 3 on a splitter personally, and not put the CPU on the same one as a case fan. 

Look at the stock case fan. Does it look like it's big enough for the case? It's not shrouded nor does it spin very fast. When I held my hand next to it, I could not really feel much airflow.

There are two SATA power cables where the 2.5" card cage is so you can drive older fans like this one, which would probably help the GPU and overall air movement in the case even more. 

The GPU doesn't have RAM/VRM heat sinks. Nor do the VRMs on the motherboard.

You can actually find the motherboard VRM heatsink on Amazon but I dunno if it's worth the $22. Hit that link, right? :) 

Here's the SATA power adapter if you want to use a fan with a Molex connector: 

Sunday, June 27, 2021

How to Convert Windows 10 MBR to GPT so you can boot on a new UEFI system vs. older Legacy BIOS boot

You've been Googling this and it's much simpler than it seems. This is not a 100% walkthru but there was ONE THING that made it so the disk wouldn't validate as being able to be converted:

You have to shrink your partition a little. I don't know why, but that's all I did.

WARNING: This can result in data loss, but my install wasn't that important so I didn't back up. You've been advised. :)

Other things:

Don't do the conversion in Windows. Boot to the recovery mode (also called WinPE or other stuff) to use mbr2gpt.exe

Make sure Windows 10 is updated. The validation on older than 1709 versions of Windows fail.

1. Shrink your system partition by 1GB. Can be done in 

2. Boot into Recovery Mode and re-validate the disk. Then convert it using mbr2gpt.

I got an error about WinReReapir (that's how it was spelled...looks like a typo) and 'failed to update reAgent.xml but Windows 10 booted fine after the conversion.

My scenario was: 2.5" SSD in older Legacy BIOS system only. Wanted to put it in Dell G5000 which is UEFI only.

Booted fine first try.

Did this help? can be used to donate $1 for some coffee. ;)

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Thursday, April 29, 2021

How to Order Your Texas DPS DMV Driving Record Form 3A and NOT get Ripped Off!

The proper website is here:

If this changes, just make sure you are on a Texas .gov website before you pay.

On 29 April 2021, I paid a total of $12. That can of course go up a little.

If you are on a site such as, it is a ripoff. They will charge you $34.95 for the same record.

You will get it IMMEDIATELY after you pay on

Did this help save you money? Buy me a cup of coffee at as I'm underemployed. 

Or, give me a like and a subscribe on my Youtube channel:

Friday, April 09, 2021

Thursday, April 08, 2021

Chevy Bolt Cabin Air Filter: $9 on Amazon, no tools needed. Carbon Impregnated.

Did mine yesterday.

Here's the link on Amazon (using it supports my Blog): At this time, it's under $9 for Prime members.

Here's a video guide:

Thursday, February 04, 2021

AU-PM422 Audio Playthrough is crackling and slow. Bad. Headphone jack on Computer works fine.

UPDATE: Solved. Watch the Video:

I have the AU-PM422 Music played through it is crackling, slow, bad. I tried both a USB 2 and a USB 3 ports.

Same music through my computer headphone port is fine.

Mac Pro Desktop OS X 10.14.6 

And yes, the AU-PM422 is both an audio output and input device. :)

Will update when I hear back from Maono.

It is probably not the cable. Tried the original and a second I had laying around. Max data rate is 192kbps so I don't think that's it even if my cable was USB 1. :)

Buy me a Coffee? $1 for Mickey D's coffee if I helped. :)

Saturday, January 16, 2021

Cheap Pen for Monoprice TWA60 Tablet on Amazon. UC-Logic Compatible


Links support me. I'm underemployed since COVID took out my company.

Had an old Monoprice TWA60 tablet and was looking for pens for it. This one works. See video.

Should work with most tablets that use UC Logic technology. Which is most pens with a battery.

You want the P68 or PEN68, or the rechargeable version. It works fine with rechargeable batteries and I didn't want to get the more expensive rechargeable version with it's special cable...and what if the battery goes bad?

Here's the direct link:

And the Huion store on Amazon if you want a newer tablet:

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