Tuesday, December 31, 2019

Gotek Floppy Emulator not Working after Flashfloppy upgrade

Ok, this probably won't solve your problem but as far as I can tell, it solved mine.

The short (pun intended) version:

The jumper on S0 for using a Gotek as DF0 on an Amiga looked sketchy. Like the metal stuck out too far, seemed kind of loose in the plastic housing...so I replaced it. It also looked different than the thousands of jumpers I've seen since the 90s...dating myself here...

Then it started to work again.

If you do vintage stuff, buy a bag of 50 jumpers here for about $1.30. That's my source. I got blue.

Want more of the story?

Symptoms were:

LED lit indicating ADFs were being cycled on the drive and that Flashfloppy was running...it was just that the Amiga wasn't doing anything with it. This matches with the jumper issue. The drive wasn't being seen by the Amiga without any jumper at all set for S0.

Sunday, December 29, 2019

Fix for Nissan Leaf Pilot Fault when Charging at Commercial Stations such as Blink, EvGo, Chargepoint, etc.

(Photo is from my repair. You will receive a ready to install and heat shrinked diode crimped into connectors...which is slightly nicer.)

This started happening to me. Leaf would charge at home but not at work which was a Blink station.

It gives you a message about a pilot fault.

Unfortunately, this requires some tiny parts and a bit of labor but it isn't that hard.

I used this fix on my own car. It's been working for at least a year.

You can buy the little kit I put together as well that makes it easier.

You're not paying for JUST for the kit, you're paying for my help if needed. :) I've made the install a little easier.

All you need is a wire cutter, stripper, and crimping tool but in a pinch you could use just a knife...but I like to do things the right way.

NO soldering involved, no wire shrink tubing, etc.

Mine looks like this tool on Ebay.

What you get:


  • Diode pre-crimped in push on connectors that are marked for easier install
  • Connectors to crimp to the wire on the car
  • Clear Instructions with pictures making this nearly foolproof
  • MY HELP if all of the above isn't enough


Disclaimer: I take NO responsibility for any of this. But many people have done it, I have done it, and even if you somehow (how did you manage?!) install the diode backwards I don't THINK it would hurt anything, it just wouldn't work...but again, you assume all liability.

Benefits: if the diode fails later, it's a simple to remove and replace. No soldering, cutting, etc. to do that. You just get a new diode and put it in. I can send you that if ever needed FOR FREE (you pay for the stamp. :)

Click the PayPal button to buy it now. $40 shipped. Technical support included.



Thursday, December 26, 2019

Amiga Explorer: What Cables and Adapters do I need?

Link for Amiga Explorer Software:
https://www.amigaforever.com/ae/

Here's a pretty exhaustive way to set it up using only AE and a serial cable. But you have to be at least booted to Workbench on the Amiga: https://www.everythingamiga.com/2017/05/amiga-explorer-pc-to-amiga-data-transfer-without-a-gotek-or-compact-flash.html

THIS is the cable USB to serial cable you want. Trust me. It's what I've got.


Don't cheap out on one with crappy drivers or a no-name serial chip. 

It uses the TI chip, which is pretty much the standard for drivers and support, IMHO.

It's also capable of 230Kbps serial transfer.

For the cable from the Tripp Lite adapter, just use Ebay if you want the lowest cost and aren't in a hurry. 

There is nothing special about the serial cable. So buy the cheapest one with the appropriate ends.

One end will need to be female, to plug into the Tripp Lite and the other will most likely be male or female 25 pin depending on your Amiga. For example, IIRC, the 500 and 1000 had different ports.

You might even buy the cable and a gender changer if you have various machines.

Cheap Cables: Search on Ebay. <=-Use this link so we get a small commission.

I'm considering listing a floppy creation service on Ebay with a bootable floppy that has Amiga Explorer on it.

I.e., I'm charging for my time, the disk, the fees, wear and tear on my vintage gear, etc. and NOT the software.

Here's my Ebay account: https://ebay.com/neptunecat

Tuesday, December 24, 2019

Building a Passive (wires and cable only) Amiga to VGA Cable

Work in Progress...more to come.


I used this pinout:

The diagram above probably should have pin 20 on the Amiga tied to ground, so I just jumpered that to pin 19. YMMV.

On the Amiga, all the pins on the middle row on the VGA connector (6-11 pins) measured out to power supply ground on my Amiga 1000 anyway. So I don't think the wiring needs individual returns for ground as it all ends up in the same place anyway....probably. Feel free to comment if you know better.

Displays that WON'T sync (unsurprisingly...way too new):
Samsung C27F591
Samsung Syncmaster (ha) 2343BWX

What works:
Well, there is signaling happening. The Samsung displays gave me a 'suboptimal range' or something like that and did at least find activity on the input by autoselecting the source.

Sunday, December 15, 2019

Gateway 2910A/I SCSI PCIe DOS Drivers

First off, you've probably found this info NOWHERE else. This took me a while.

So consider a Paypal Donation!

Here's the info on the driver I used to be able to recognize hard drives. From some readme I found somewhere.

-----Pasted portion-----

ASPI8DOS.SYS
------------

   ASPI8DOS.SYS is Adaptec's ASPI manager for AIC-7850/7855/7870 based 
   PCI SCSI host adapters.  Running Adaptec EZ-SCSI will automatically 
   detect which host adapter you have installed, which ASPI manager needs 
   to be loaded, and what the correct command line switches are.

   o  If you have an Adaptec PCI SCSI host adapter installed in your system,
      and you have EMM386.EXE loaded from MS-DOS versions up to 6.2, your
      system might hang if loading the ASPI manager after EMM386.EXE.  This 
      has been fixed in the EMM386.EXE that ships with MS-DOS 6.22 and 
      later.  If you experience this problem, you will either need to load 
      ASPI8DOS.SYS before EMM386.EXE, or upgrade to MS-DOS 6.22 or later.  
      If the ASPI manager detects a conflict, a message will be shown 
      explaining how to work around the problem.  Other ASPI modules 
      (e.g. ASPICD.SYS) can continue to be loaded high.

   o  There are several techniques for a driver to determine if its PCI SCSI
      host adapter is installed in your system.  ASPI8DOS.SYS will determine
      which is the best method, and has been written to work around the
      EMM386.EXE problems discussed above.  There are three command line
      switches you can use to force the ASPI manager to use a specific
      method.  These are:

        /MB - This command line switch will force the driver to use the
              PCI BIOS calls (INT 1Ah) to scan for PCI SCSI host 
              adapters.
        /M1 - This command line switch will force the driver to use the
              "Mechanism 1" method for scanning for PCI SCSI host 
              adapters.
        /M2 - This command line switch will force the driver to use the
              "Mechanism 2" method for scanning for PCI SCSI host 
              adapters.
              
      For example, if you want to force the ASPI manager to find your PCI 
      SCSI host adapter using PCI motherboard BIOS calls, your CONFIG.SYS 
      would be:

        DEVICE=C:\SCSI\ASPI8DOS.SYS /D /MB

      NOTE:  Most PCI systems do not support all three methods for scanning
             for PCI cards.  It is recommended that you let the ASPI manager 
             determine which method is suitable.

   o  If you would like ASPI8DOS.SYS NOT to reset the SCSI bus, during 
      driver initialization, you can use the /NORST command line switch.  
      For example:

        DEVICE=C:\SCSI\ASPI8DOS.SYS /D /NORST

      If you would like ASPI8DOS.SYS to always reset the SCSI bus, during
      driver initialization, you can use the /RESET command line switch.
      For example:

        DEVICE=C:\SCSI\ASPI8DOS.SYS /D /RESET

   o If there are more host adapters that ASPI8DOS can support, ASPI8DOS will display "Not enough 
     memory for all host adapters". In this case, the user should manually add more lines of 
     "DEVICE=ASPI8DOS.SYS" to CONFIG.SYS to support the extra host adapters. EZ-SCSI only installs  one entry in config.sys for ASPI8DOS.SYS.
-----

--End Pasted Info--

I actually have a DOS FLOPPY (!!) of Adaptec EZ-SCSI 1.0 and I found some later drivers I upgraded.

Using INSTALL.BAT on EZ-SCSI 1.0 floppy DOES NOT recognize the Adapter. Probably because it's too new: it's a PCIe card.

As of this writing, the ASPI Manager for AIC-78xx/-75xx v1.32 recognizes this controller card and an attached SCS2SD device with 2 SCSI LUNs.


Monday, December 09, 2019

Amiga 2000 Fixes

A common troubleshooting on technique on Amiga 2000 boards, at least for Rev 6.x for non-moving mouse is that the mouse won't move but the buttons still work.

The problem with that is you need an original mouse to use that technique.

If you have a micro controller or other adapter and a PS/2 or USB PC mouse then the buttons also won't work.

Why?

When F1 (Fuse 1 on the motherboard) blows, it disables the 5V line on the joystick ports. This is why your optical mouse no longer lights up, and the micro controller is recieving no power, therefore it can't send a 'click' that the Amiga see.

What you need is a 4 Amp pico fuse. These are very fast acting. They aren't expensive and you don't even have to remove the board to replace it. It blows open, so you can solder the new fuse in parallel with the old, or just clip the leads close to the fuse body and solder the new one to those leads. I'm considering adding a header pin set here and putting the fuse in some sort of jumper block. But that's another post.

Click here for 10 fuses for under $9. https://amzn.to/2DYUU1z This is what I got. I get a small commission.


Sunday, November 24, 2019

Apple IIGS GSOS Low Memory Causing Lockups

I have a 4MB expansion. 800K was cache and 2400K was RAMDISK. Leaving about 980K free.

Unarchiving a simple 50K archive would lock the machine when quitting GS Shrinkit.


Sunday, November 17, 2019

Building an ADF-Copy Board for Reading and Writing Amiga Disks with a PC Floppy

Pics to follow. I just built this. Notes for now, cleaner post/video later.

These are cheaper on Amazon than Ebay by about $6. -=> https://amzn.to/335jsjt (Using my link makes me a dollar or so...I appreciate it.)

The pics/video will make my notes clearer.

https://nickslabor.niteto.de/projekte/adf-copy-english/


  • -You must have a floppy drive connected or the front end software won't detect the hardware. An Amiga floppy works for testing the connection.
Not immediately obvious to me:
  • the Teensy micro USB connector is comm and power for the teensy only
  • -the OTHER usb connector is power only for the floppy drive.
  • The headers for D-/D+ aren't needed at this time. +5V can be used to feed floppy power as it's common. GND can come in at the floppy power pin.


I recommend just buying some breakaway .100 header strips and using that to connect a floppy cable, floppy power and USB power. Way cheaper and flexible. You can now put it in a case or wherever vs. having to plug the baord into a drive. Board clearance on some drives now no longer an issue.

You can cut arduino wires (,100) and solder those to a USB cable to make the power connection.

Power out via .100 header pins can now use a standard 3.5" power cable. Break off 3, cut the center one flush and then solder it in the holes on the PCB.

Cheapest build:

Use nothing but header pins and the teensy. Though I'd recommend socketing the teensy.

You don't even need the capacitor if you use a 1amp (iphone charger for example) power supply to feed the +5V for the floppy.

Sunday, November 10, 2019

Horrible Noise From Monoprice Maker Ultimate



This one is pretty simple but not intuitive for a fix. Just slightly bend or adjust the limit travel switches.

With the printer off, you can move the head by hand. Just ensure the switch 'clicks' slightly before the head is full travel.

Let's say 1/th inch but there's probably an official number somewhere...probably doesn't matter unless you are printing something at the size limit.

In my case, when I homed the head it made a horrible grinding noise and told me the limit switch was broken. 

The one on the back left of the printer as you face the screen was not clicking before the head travel hit the physical limit. The left arrow in this photo. Other arrow is another switch and there's a third one somewhere. :)



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Tuesday, October 29, 2019

Amiga 1000 Power Supply Repair

Mine was missing 12V from the 3122V voltage regulator. I replaced about half the electrolytics while I was in there.



3122V is attached the the last heat sink in the upper right corner here. You can just unscrew and desolder, heat sync stays in place.

I got mine for $3.89 on Ebay. Here's a link to the specific listing: Linky. Either link supports me by generating a tiny commission.


Sunday, October 27, 2019

ADTPro and Windows: Which USB to Serial Adapter to use?

Update: Link for Amiga Explorer:
https://www.amigaforever.com/ae/ and here's a pretty exhaustive way to set it up using only AE and a serial cable. But you have to be at least booted to Workbench on the Amiga: https://www.everythingamiga.com/2017/05/amiga-explorer-pc-to-amiga-data-transfer-without-a-gotek-or-compact-flash.html

IMHO, don't go too cheap.

This is a good brand, with good drivers and it's what I used with ADTPro to make floppies on my IIGS:



I'll make about 72 cents if you buy it using the link. And that will make me happy so I will keep writing these.

It's rated 4.5 stars. 

Don't be cheap and wrestle with crappy drivers. This is easy. And it's capable of around 250Kbps if you need something high speed for later.

You'll need SOME kind of 9 pin null modem adapter.

Here's a link for some: https://amzn.to/2WmWGSy

One end needs to be female. The other depends on what cable you get. 

For my IIgs, one end was the DIN8 serial and the other a DB25 so I got a null modem adapter that mated those two ends. 

I think it's better to just have one null modem adapter and then just buy cheaper adapters and cables to fit that for various projects vs. buying several different null modem cables. It's cheaper to just buy regular cables and re-use the null modem adapter over and over. 

One example would be my Amiga, which I will be putting Amiga Explorer on and I've already got two DB25 ends which is probably a cheap cable I think I've already got.

HTH.


Saturday, October 26, 2019

Bridging TCP/IP on an Apple IIgs to the rest of the world

I wrote separate article on bridging Ethernet to Localtalk which turns out to be fairly trivial using a beige G3 as a software bridge.

So *PHYSICALLY* we are bridged, sorta, but the LocalTalk bridge software doesn't pass TCP/IP packets.

https://lowendmac.com/network/bridge.shtml

"Except for the Farallon StarRouter, none of the bridge solutions allow use of TCP/IP, which means the oldest Macs can't access the internet.

MacIPgw is what I’m fiddling with now.

FAQs:

Q: Where do I put the TCPIP update for Marinetti (http://www.apple2.org/marinetti/)?
A: It goes in the System.Setup folder. You can hit Command-I and it's 3.0b11 for the new one as of this writing.

Friday, October 25, 2019

IIgs and CFFA 3000 and lost Icons Folder

My problem:

Suddenly my relatively fresh GSOS 6.0.4 install on a CFFA 3000 CF card lost the Icons folder and the Ftype.Apple file.

"Finder couldn't Load any File type Descriptors"


For some strange reason there was a More.Icons folder though.

It was installed on a .po file via (IIRC) a fresh actual physical floppy set. (Before I got better at using the CFFA 3000 and images.)

Solution:

Download a fresh live .po image of GSOS 6.0.4
Boot the new live image.
When booted, press Open Apple-Ctrl-Esc and mount your faulty installation.
Copy More.Icons over to Icons.

One issue:
Mounting the live install first in Smartport slot 1 then adding my .po file to slot 2 still booted mine. So, don't mount your defective install until after booting the fresh one.
Solved: in the CFFA CDA, set the USB or CF to start first as desired.

Solved until further notice: Copying the files in More.Icons to Icons allowed GSOS to boot.

Issue: why do I have Bill the Cat from Bloom County as my trash icon? Don't remember installing that...


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Husqvarna HU 625AWD drive cable replacement and return spring attachment location.

First, PLEASE use this Amazon link if you're buying the cable. We get a few cents. This is where I got mine. It is correct and looks exact.



Mainly posting because my return spring that disengages the drive popped off and one attach point is hidden.

Mower:


Spring Location

This is with the mower on its side. As you can see, one end attaches to a slot on the plastic guard on the left and it's kind of hidden. the other end goes to an attach hole on the greased part you see on the right. I hit it all with some spray white lithium grease.

I'd also recommend some lithium grease on the cable. Mine rusted out.

Link for grease: https://amzn.to/2BL1pE1


Saturday, September 14, 2019

Amiga 1000 Resurrection Rebuild

Bought an Amiga 1000 (because I always wanted one) for relatively cheap on Ebay and it said 'It Runs'.

Yeah, right.

The power supply fan runs. Short story: no 12V output due to a bad 3122V.

No video or anything yet, 3122V on order.

Went ahead and replaced about half the electrolytics on the power supply with what I had.

All other voltages present and looked ok or close enough to work. IIRC -12V was 10.something.

Of course, it had really been parted out because the seller was an idiot.

Missing floppy, missing floppy cable, missing floppy mount...smelled a bit like cigarette smoke.

10/13/2019:

Power supply repair completed with 3122V. All voltages slightly above the rating so they should be good under load but I haven't checked yet.

It does boot to a white screen and I get the boot tones.

11/2/2019:

After a brief run, started getting a Cyan (blue?) screen which means either the WCS RAM (Where the Amiga 1000 loads Kickstart floppy to) or one of the custom chips. Only the 1000 gives a cyan for WCS. Blue is for all Amigas IIRC.

So, I removed all the custom chips and cleaned the legs with 91% rubbing alcohol and gave the sockets a swipe and a canned air cleaning.

Found a weak leg (partially cracked) on the middle custom chip and so I solder coated it. Gold pins and aluminum cheap sockets don't do well over time. Dissimilar metal issues IMHO.

So now its running. Got Amiga Explorer Running. Copied it to an ADF.

Expect a video on that and how to get it up because the instructions aren't entirely clear.

Video forthcoming on the PS/2 mouse and PS/2 keyboard adapters I got.

RAM connector was gross. Clean yours. I swapped some gross looking spots here and there.

Next: Amiga diagnostics.




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Monday, August 26, 2019

How to Mute a Chrome Window / Tab

This is great if you have to do an online course or whatever with mandatory watch times.

If you don't want to listen to the audio but maybe just kinda watch it while you Netflix, it's easy.

I'm using Chrome on Mac OS X 10.13 (doesn't matter) build 76.0.3809.100.

Just right click the tab and select 'Mute Site'. 

Shop on Amazon to support us: https://amzn.to/31Xm1UC

Monday, June 24, 2019

1988 C4 Corvette Rear Shock/Strut Replacement. I used Bilstein.

Good instructions. Better than Bilstein's. IIRC for 1988: top rear bracket torque 22 ft/lbs, knuckle 61 ft/lbs. Also for the old strut you can use a 1/4 in wrench to hold the strut from turning vs. vice grips.

Check your manual.

1988 Lugnuts 100ft lbs, again IIRC. 80 for the spare.


PLEASE use my Amazon link. I get a little commission and it helps support my reviews:


Click the pic to buy the exact ones I got.

At the time of writing they were under $90 each. The rubber was all uprated and larger pieces. The old one didn't have a self locking nut. Nice upgrades.



Wednesday, May 22, 2019

FIX: Virtual Box and FreeDOS 1.2 ISO Invalid Opcode errors when booting for install

Here's what the FreeDOS page says to do:

"When you boot the FreeDOS install CDROM, when you get the get the first "Welcome to FreeDOS 1.2" boot menu, press Tab when you're on "Install to harddisk" and add 'raw' (without quotes) to the kernel command line, then press Enter to boot.

From this:
KERNEL /boot/syslinux/memdisk

To this:
KERNEL /boot/syslinux/memdisk raw"

So all this means is push tab, type 'raw' (without quotes) and press Enter. 

But the command line looks like this when it pops up:



Pretty much nothing like what the FreeDOS site says, unless you're a linux geek. 

Which is why people still hate Linux.

Note: you will have to hit 'tab' and enter 'raw' at the end every time the VM reboots during the install such as after it partitions your virtual disk.

Did I help? Patreon me. https://www.patreon.com/bePatron?u=8784167

Connecting Apple IIgs to your Mac Pro for File Sharing

Specifically this is just to clarify some settings for the LocalTalk Bridge 2.1 Control Panel. It works for me.


As you can see, AppleTalk is set to use Ethernet per the notes at http://ivanx.com/a2server/a2server_lan.html.

But it didn't say what to set as far as the Public/Private setting for the control panel.

My home Ethernet is 192.168.29.xxx so it's a private IP but since LocalTalk can't use TCP/IP on classic Macs and the IIgs (yet...more on that in a minute) I think it just really means 'can anyone use the bridge', so it's set to yes.

Other specs:
Beige G3 running Mac OS 9.2.2 natively, Localtalk over phonenet with terminators (Farallon but none of that really matters), Apple IIgs on GSOS 6.0.4.

I can see both my VirtualBox shares and the shares of my G3 on my IIgs. G3 is in the middle as the bridge of course. It's a good middle of the road machine for Classic work in the modern world as it still has most of the ports, IDE interfaces, SCSI, mine's got USB, it's got a floppy that can read and write at least 800K (although IIRC later OSes have issues with ProDOS). I usually just use HFS 800K if I have to.

Want to thank me for my work? Click the Paypal link on the right side that says 'Buy me a Cup of Coffee' or because I like to make things easier, here's a Patreon Link:

https://www.patreon.com/bePatron?u=8784167

Issue:
VirtualBox (VB) does not sense the active physical Ethernet port on my Mac Pro (cMP). I had to go to settings on VB to tell it Ethernet 1, Bridged Adapter after I had swapped the cable over when I was toying with some settings on my cMP.

Issue:
IIgs doesn't see my folder share but it does allow me to access complete disks on the G3 by logging in as a registered user.

Bonus Tip:
I'm using Sheepshaver on my cMP to screen control the G3 via TimbukTu Pro 4.0.6 (TTP) under Mac OS 7.5.5 on Sheepshaver. It craps out on program start but then just init a new connection on TTP.

Also if you're using Sheepshaver, I had to uncheck 'Ignore Illegal Instructions' to get TTP going again. For some reason it just stopped working.

Don't you love vintage computing?

Note:
The LocalTalk bridge DOES NOT allow TCP/IP per:

https://lowendmac.com/network/bridge.shtml

"Except for the Farallon StarRouter, none of the bridge solutions allow use of TCP/IP, which means the oldest Macs can't access the internet.

Bridging my Apple IIgs TCP/IP in software will is a seperate blog post. 

Questions? I do respond to comments.

Did this help you? I spend too much time on this so the PayPal link on the right can be used to buy me a cup of coffee.


Saturday, May 11, 2019

Apple II GS/OS *WITHOUT* a Hard Drive! RAMDISK!

Support us by using this link to buy IIgs stuff on Ebay: IIGS items on Ebay

Or 'Buy Me Some Coffee' on the right side of this page with the PayPal Link.

I downloaded and made the 6.0.4 floppies, and then used Flashboot to install it to the RAMDISK. I have a 4MB Applied Engineering RAMDISK and even with a few add-ins over the basics, I have about 800K left.

Instructions can be clicked. They work. Some differences in verbiage vs. what the screen says, but pretty obvious. Comment if you have questions.



Thursday, April 25, 2019

Acer G73jh Windows 10 Notes

I sold this laptop but this post still might help. Turns out the motherboard supposedly had a hairline crack in it.

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/nb/Apps_for_Win10/ATKPackage/ATKPackage_Win10_64_VER100039.zip

Windows 10 ATK Version.

Then do the regedit:
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/insider/forum/insider_wintp-insider_devices/no-brightness-control-in-windows-10-tp/ce540918-7bb9-4ae4-9814-753023675d53

Notes:

Set 90% max cpu in power plan seems to help
turn turbo off in bios

throttlestop 8.7 settings



Acer Nitro 5 BSOD Notes.

Update 22 May 2019: I think it's a bad RAM piece. IIRC in the last week I've only seen one driver restart 'black screen flash'. I also updated the Radeon software.

Frustrating that memtest didn't see any bad RAM. This is a long drawn out process.

I removed the OEM RAM stick and put an identical piece I'd purchased to expand the memory with in it's place. Seems WAY more stable.

Furmark ran without any artifacts noted for over 24 hrs off the Vega GPU. I wanted to use that since it uses system RAM which is the suspect.

Sloppy notes:

515-42 model, RX 560X and Ryzen 5.

Following instructions here. https://community.amd.com/docs/DOC-1641

I noted that Visual C++ had installed a 2015 and 2017 version on my laptop but the MS download page says 2015-2019 share the same distributable so I wonder if that was the issue.

After uninstalling and reinstalling those I ended up with 2005 version 4, 2012 x64/x86 and the 2017 x64/x86.

Links for 2005 and 2012 IIRC I had to google for.

Latest attempt: GPU scaling on.

It black screen flashes (Windows driver restart due to non responsiveness) too.

Furmark, Memtest, etc. have revealed no artifacts/memory issues yet. What's weird is it doesn't do it in games at higher temps so I'm hoping it's a windows GUI issue which is where it happens...usually just while using chrome...

BSOD changed from

Video TDR Failure (atikmpag.sys)

(IIRC) to a different issue after the instructions at https://community.amd.com/docs/DOC-1641 and since then I turned on GPU scaling...

Friday, January 18, 2019

Screen Sharing Between Classic Mac and OS X

This is a work in progress, but I've found what I *THINK* is going to be about the best method:

Setup Sheepshaver on OS X, and install Timbuktu Pro on that virtual machine, and also on your real PowerMac hardware or what have you.

I was lucky to get a CD of Timbuktu and Manual on Ebay for $9!

Please don't pirate if you can avoid it, although in this case, actual copies can be expensive and the company doesn't sell it any more so it's tricky. :)

One thing that threw me for a second: I had 7.5.5 installed on Sheepshaver and the Timbuktu installer complained that I needed 7.5...just tell it the correct drive that 7.5.5 is on in the dropdown. :)

Please use this link to search for Timbuktu Pro on Ebay, we get a little commission, which is why I write these articles and it helps me pay for the stuff I write about:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp2380057.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xtimbuktu%2Bpro.TRS0%26_nkw%3Dtimbuktu%2Bpro%26_sacat%3D0&campid=5337534429&toolid=20008

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And if you're really nice, book mark this page: AmAmZin.com that has an Amazon Search box. If you start your shopping trips there, I get a little check from whatever you buy.

Misc Notes:

VNC Server on Mac OS 9 doesn't work very well. Kinda gave up.
Netpresenz for FTPingon Mac OS 9 works ok but for some reason doesn't like .sea.bin files, I think it's trying to extract on the MAc for some reason but fails processing the .sea part. .smi.bin and other files work fine.
...so these reasons are why I'm trying Timbuktu Pro.

More to come on this subject! Will update as it progresses.



 
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